The wines of Nicolas Thienpont: Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse, Pavie Macquin, Larcis Ducasse, Berliquet

June 18, 2011

Now, I am not a fan of BIG wines from the Right Bank, and Pavie Macquin has been that way for me… in some recent vintages. But one has to admire the work that goes into making that wine. I prefer Larcis Ducasse and Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse, although I was not as impressed with this latter wine as other critics were in 2010. The 2009 seems better. Berliquet represents a fine price/quality ratio. In any case Nicolas Thienpoint is talented. Many thanks to David Suire for inviting me to taste three vintages of all of the above in 08, 09, 10: a trilogy which the Bordelais compare to 88, 89, 90. We shall see how the wines develop.

The entire tasting, on 16 June, occurred because I really wanted to re-taste Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse, as I had not been as impressed as other tasters were with the 2010. Many thanks to Nicolas Thienpoint to have pulled out four wines he manages for comparative verticals 2008-2009-2010.

The wines

Chateau Berliquet Grand Cru Classe St Emilion: Cyril Thienpont, son of Nicolas, is supporting Nicolas at Berliquet, since 2008. Berliquet is still owned by the Famille de Lesquin but Patrick Valette left as director in 2007. Thienpont took over in 2008.

Chateau Larcis Ducasse Grand Cru Classe St Emilion. Since 2002, Nicolas started directing.

Chateau Pavie Macquin, Premier Grand Cru Classe B (2006). Since 1994, Nicolas has been directing.

Chateau Beausejour DL, managed by Nicolas since February 2009.

2008 vintage

Berliquet. Good freshness on the nose. The palate shows acidity, however. Not quite green but not super ripe either. There is a red fruit aspect that is nice. A certain freshness. 86-87

Larcis Ducasse. Greater polish albeit mahogany, on the nose. 55% new oak. Good sap. A bit more palate presence than the above. If the price is right, may be worth seeking out. 91

Pavie Macquin. Jam on the nose. 75% new oak. Rich and a bit extracted aspect. Somewhat drying. David says that naturally, the acidity brings out the tannin. Not extraction. It is not more pushed out, he said. All I know is that it is rather difficult to appreciate. 90?

Beausejour DL 2008. A bit of a reduced nose. David said that they had just arrived afterwards and have noticed that too… There is a fluidity to the palate that I find easier on the gums than the Pavie Macquin however… But something is amiss here. ??

2009 vintage

Berliquet. In bottle two weeks ago… Riper. Richer. About 14.2%. Nice actually, rather rich with blackberry and black fruit aromas. Perhaps a tad monolithic but the price is right! 89-90

Larcis Ducasse. Bottled one month ago. Fragrant polish on the nose. 65% new oak, like 2008. Merlots, about 60 years old, that recall CF says David. 14.4% but decent freshness, a hint of oak derivation? But rather fine overall, I really like the nose here. 92+

Pavie Macquin. Thick nose. Juicy richness. Big wine. 80% new oak,. Fining just done. Not yet in bottle. Real richness. Thickness. Not sure if this is my style but it is impressive. 14.8% alcohol. 90, but more if you seek rich, big wines from Bordeaux…

Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse. Very subtle notes on the nose, mineral, even a bit of limestone freshness. 80% new oak, 14.6 alcohol. Rather thickly laid out, but has more nuance, more mineral aspects. Very interesting. Somewhat less drying than Larcis, but both are fine… Overall, perhaps my favorite of the tasting, and confirms my experience en primeur last year. 94+

2010 vintage

Berliquet. 25% CF, 5% CS, 70%M. 14.6 or 14.7% alcohol. Malo was late this year… better to taste in June. Very rich. I can feel the alcohol but it is overall a success. For restaurant clients… A bit hot. 87-90

Larcis Ducasse. Nice spearmint nose of freshness. Hint of oak derivation…Juicy on the middle of the palate but that dries out a bit. David says that this is in the middle of aging, it will go away. He says he finds it fresher than 2009. 14.7% alcohol. 70% new oak. There is a decent sap, I guess, but why so much new oak?! 89-91

Pavie Macquin. Nose is a bit reserved actually. Very rich with swirling. Good sap. Better than en primeur? More acidity… than in 2009. 15% alcohol but the acidity does a good balancing act. It is tasting much better now than before, and I think I prefer it to the 2009, accounting for different times in tasting. 90-93

Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse. Wonderful nose here. On its own, it deserves a higher score. I was immediately impressed with depth of the aromas. A bit less obvious richness than en primeur, which is a plus. But the palate has oak derivation that seems just somewhat drying. 70% new oak… Was racked 15 days ago…14.8% alcohol. Less new oak in 2010. “We were worried about alcohol extracting too much tannin from new oak,” David said. I am still a bit worried… 90-92+