Serious Chablis for summer drinking: pass the oysters and the fish

July 11, 2012

Domaine de la Meulière / Chablis Premier Cru Monts de Milieu Vieilles Vignes 2008

Fine - and quite rich - Chablis

It is summer time and some wines are going to be more appropriate than others. Freshness is the key word here. When the weather turns warm, it is a pleasure to enjoy cleaner and crisper wines – more than ever. A friend asked me earlier today about rosé wines in France and I recommended Bandol. Certainly when I had visited Bandol back in 2005, I adored so many of those wines. So a fine Bandol is always a sure thing: they not only are fresh but also have quite a bit of substance, at least the better ones.
Tonight, I am drinking an excellent premier cru Chablis, made from grapes grown from 60-year old vines. One can taste the mineral chalk like elements in this Chardonnay grown on kimmeridgien limestone and clay. The exposure of the vineyard is a fine southern exposure, to the right of the famous Serein river of Chablis.

Furthermore, the 2008 vintage is excellent for whites, with lively acidity but fine ripening too.
The nose exudes red apple and touches of grapefruit and lemon rind, with a stony, mineral aspect and even just a hint of butter. The attack is smooth, yet brisk, and the mid palate tightens a bit, as if to say that it is too early, really, to drink me now. It is a bit coiled up! There is plenty of richness, almost enough to allow for a match with foie gras, as they owners suggest, but certainly excellent with cheese. Or, alternatively, a richer fish, served in a cream sauce.

In the end, there is enough citrus zest to make it go well with oysters, too. Wow, now I am getting hungry!

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